Mamiya Six Folding Camera Lens Transplant

This blog post describes the process of me removing a Olympus D-Zuiko 75mm F3.5 lens from an Mamiya Six Automat to a Mamiya Six non Automat camera fitted with a Setagaya Koki Sekor 75mm F3.5 lens.

I bought a Mamiya Six "repair or spare" camera from Japan.  The shutter was damaged beyond repair.  A pity as it is a good camera.  A while later, I bought another Mamiya Six camera, a Mamiya Six Automat version.  It was quite cheap.  The Automat camera was strictly a spares camera.  It has a number of missing parts, but the lens was attached.  When it was received, I found the shutter was working well and the lens was in good condition.

Broken shutter removed from camera

Shutter jamed and I could not unjam it

I decided to swap the lenses to make one working camera.  The original camera has a Setagaya Koki Sekor 75mm F3.5 lens with a Copal shutter which goes up to 1/300s.  While the Automat camera has a Olympus D-Zuiko 75mm F3.5 lens with a shutter which goes up to 1/500s.  When I removed the lenses from the cameras, I found they have different location pin positions.  The swap was not as straight forward as I thought.  I will have drill a new hole for new locating pin.

Cocking ring return spring as I removed the lens from lens board

Lens and shutter removed from camera

Front lens element unscrewed showing the cocking ring

The cocking ring has hook point to the front.  This hooks onto a lever on the camera which cocks the shutter.  It also has a return spring at the bottom.  I will have to somehow attach this spring onto my camera.  I also have to cut the cocking ring hook off, as it catches a spring on the non Automat camera

Ring removed with hook pointing up

Hook cut off and edges smoothed

Cocking ring back on the lens

Then I had to drill a new hole to the lens board for the new locating pin to fit onto.

A new 2mm hole drilled to allow Olympus Automat Lens to fit

On the Automat lens, there were two paper spacers and one metal spacer fitted.  When I tried to fit all the spacers onto the new camera, it was too thick and there was not enough thread for the locking ring  to screw onto.  In the end, I did not fit the metal spacer and the lens fitted.

For the return spring, I made a small metal bracket with a small hole drilled into it.  I then glued this small bracket onto the lens mounting board.  The tricky part was to attached the spring.  It took me a little while but manged it in the end.  Now, the cocking plate now returns after cocking the shutter.

The last step was to calibrate the rangefinder.  This was achived with a small piece of ground glass attached to the film plane, set the shutter to B, focus to infinity and check the image on the ground glass is sharp.  Luckily for me, it was and I did not have to add or remove any shims.

Now, the camera is all set and ready to shoot.

Lens & shutter on the camera

Note the return cocking ring return spring on bottom right of the lens

Camera ready to shoot

Chinon CE-5 - A Camera from the 1980s

It uses Pentax K mount, which mean there are many reasonable priced lenses available.  I got this camera for £12 and described as spare or repair.  It was in poor state, but the shutter fired after fitting new batteries.  Some of the leatherette were missing.  I gave it a good clean up, replaced the light seals, mirror bumper.  Also replaced the leatherette with the red vinyl.  It looks like a completely different camera.  Also managed to get hold of a power winder on eBay bundled with another purchase.  You could say it was for free.  In the 80s', I always wanted a power winder.  It was so cool and professional.  Of course, I would not carry one now, it is just too heavy and need another four AA batteries.

The CE5 is quite conventional and innovative at the same time.  It can shoot in manual or aperture priority and has a maximum shutter speed of 1/2000s  Self timer can be set to 5s or 10s.  There is a window on top of the viewfinder to see the aperture selected on the lens.  That is a wonderful idea and wondered why not many camera have this feature.  The camera does need batteries to operate.  It uses  tow LR44 batteries inserted from the bottom.  The innovation of this camera is the ability to fit auto focus lens on the camera.  The three electrical contacts on the top left of the lens mount are for the auto focus lens to connect to the camera.  I have never seen any of these lenses anywhere and must be very rare.  I have no idea how good they were or how fast.

The handling of the camera is very conventional for SLRs from the 80/90s.  Nothing unusual or different.  I am a sucker for the under dog and often wondered why no one remembers Chinon.  The cameras they made are quite good and quite a lot cheaper than the 1st tier companies like Canon, Nikon and Pentax, etc.  What ever the reason, Chinon cameras are very good value now.  I would highly recommend picking up one of these cameras for film photography.

I loaded the camera with Kodak ColorPlus 200 film for some street portraits.

The photos came out OK.  My C41 developer was getting exhausted and it showed in the negatives.  I need to get some new chemical before developing the next roll of film.  I need to shoot more with this camera.

Ricoh KR10 - A Budget SLR from 80s with Pentax K Mount

 I picked up this camera to give away as a gift for Christmas.  I paid £12 including postage as an untested camera from eBay.  In another auction, I paid £12 for a Ricoh Rikenon 50mm F2  lens.  Once received, I only had to clean up the body and put in two LR44 batteries and the camera bust into life and fully working.  I did have the replace the light seals and mirror bumper.  They were in a sorry state.  The lens was in remarkable condition, almost like new.  This will make a wonderful gift for Christmas.  Of course I had to test the camera with a roll of film to make sure it is fully working.

This camera does not work without battery, except X, which is 1/90s.  No other speeds are available.  It also has auto mode, which is aperture priority.  The shutter speed the camera selected is indicated in the view finder with a needle.  Handling wise, it is very standard without any surprise.  There is a mechanical self timer at the front which is about 10s delay.  Shutter speeds available ranges from B, 4s to 1/1000s.  I have not seen a camera that has speed down to 4s.  One feature is the film winding lever act as a on/off switch.  When pushed in, the camera is off and does not fire.  You do have to pull it out to turn on the caemra.

The mirror slap is quite loud though.  It has a distinctive mirror slap noise.  Definitely not a stealth camera.  There is no mirror lock up.  Matched with the 50mm lens. it makes for a very budget friendly setup.

I loaded the camera with Fomapan 400 and headed to Cambridge for some street photography.  The photos came out very well.  Exposures were accurate and I did not have to make many adjustments to the scans.

I would highly recommend this camera to anyone who wants a 35mm film camera to try.  Don't spend too much money in case film photography is not for you.

Fujica ST705W - Late 70s M42 SLR Camera with Open Aperture Metering

This is a late 70s' SLR camera from Fuji Film in M42 mount.  The only difference between ST705 and ST705W is the W version is able to mount a motor winder.  It is a fully manual camera without any automation.  There are vast choices of lens available in M42 mount.  However, the Fujinon M42 bodies are different and support open aperture metering.  The lenses have a tab which operate a pin which tells the camera what aperture is set to.  Hence open aperture metering is possible.  The camera is very light compact.  It weighs a lot less than my Chinon CS and CXII.  The focus screen is quite a bit brighter, making it much easier to focus.  From what I know, Fujica was the last camera company to abandon M42 mount as all other companies switched over to bayonet mounts which allow much more automations.  This was what photographers were demanding at that time.

One of the reason I like these cameras is they are fully mechanical and the batteries only drives the meter.  Without batteries it is still able to operate normally.  I did have to renew all the light seals and mirror bumper.  I also cleaned the mirror and focus screen.  Although all the shutter speeds were working and appears to be accurate, I removed the bottom plate and lubricated all the small gears and cogs.

What sets this camera apart from other cameras of the time was the ability to meter without stopping down the lens.  Also, the light meter uses photo sensitive diodes. Cameras of that era typically uses Cds which is slower and less sensitive to light.  Also, it uses 2 x LR44 or SR44 batteries.  They are still readily available.  Lots of cameras of that time were still using mercury batteries which are illegal now.

I loaded the camera with Kodak Colorplus 200 and went on a photo walk photographing portraits on the streets of London.  The lens I was using was Fujinon 50mm f1.8.  I found the camera exposures to be accurate and consistent.